I came across this site from the University of Tennessee's extension Program which lists the native trees of Tennessee. Many of these trees are suitable for landscape design. http://www.gardenguides.com/101270-plants-shrubs-middle-tennessee-area.html
Middle Tennessee's 39 counties fall into U.S. Hardiness Zone 6B, with a minimum average temperature of minus 5 degrees F. Middle Tennessee's gardens face subfreezing temperatures and hot, dry summers. The upside is a long period between the final spring and first autumn frost. Nashville, for example, seldom sees frost after mid-April or before mid-October. Carefully chosen plants and shrubs provide up to six months of garden enjoyment. Indigo Bush Indigo bush (Amorpha fruticosa) is a rapidly growing perennial reaching between 6 and 10 feet high and up to 15 feet wide. Belonging to the pea family, this airy shrub produces leaves and flowers along the upper one-third of its branches. The blue or purple flowers, with contrasting orange anthers, appear in 3-to-6-inch spikes between April and June. Blooming indigo bush is a striking backdrop for flowering spring bulbs. Its delicate gray-green leaves become yellow in autumn. Plant these shrubs in moist, acidic sandy or loamy soil and full sun to part shade. They thrive along streams and in water gardens. Both bees and butterflies gather their nectar. Indigo bush self-sows readily. Remove young plants to prevent them from becoming invasive. Oakleaf Hydrangea During June and July, oakleaf hydreangea (Hydrangea quercifolia) shrubs put on a show along the river banks and in the damp woods of Middle Tennessee. Named for their oak-like deep green leaves, these 3-to-12 foot mounding plants have flat, loose irregular clusters of white flowers rising above pale green buds. The flowers become rose-purple as they age, remaining on the plants through the winter. They are breathtaking against the hydrangea's brilliant burgundy-red fall foliage. Plant oakleaf hydrangea, according to the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center, in shade and moist, well-drained pH-neutral soil. Plants spread easily via their root systems. Cutting new canes will control the spread. Shape the shrubs by pruning them right after they flower. Virgin's Bower Rapidly climbing virgin's bower (Clematis virginiana) vine can grow as much as 20 feet in a single season. A perennial, virgin's bower bears abundant clusters of tiny fragrant white flowers between July and September. Its deep green leaves make the flowers appear even brighter. Both butterflies and hummingbirds feed on the nectar. Female flowers produce achenes, seeds with feathery tails like dandelion seeds, during late summer, providing even more garden interest. Requiring support, this vine will cling to other plants unless you train it to a trellis, fence or espalier. Plant it in full sun or shade. It performs best in moist rich soil. Prune the vine in early spring to encourage bushiness. All parts of Virgin's bower are toxic. Handle it with gloves to avoid short-lived skin redness and stinging. Do not ingest it Middle Tennessee Lawn Care Tips www.gardenguides.com
Most lawns in Middle Tennessee are predominantly blends of tall fescue, a cool season turfgrass that, with proper care, will remain green and lush year-round. Most landscape managers and home gardeners work to free fescue lawns from everything else: pests, weeds and other types of grass. Assuming the turf is established, and a certain amount of chemical practices are acceptable, great lawn care is not out of reach. To keep a healthy, green fescue lawn in Middle Tennessee, understand four basic aspects of turf management. MowingBeginning in late March, get the grass blades used to growing at the height you want them to be. Start by making sure the mower blades are sharp. The University of Tennessee Extension Service recommends setting blade height to about 2 to 3 inches from the ground. Mow in a back and forth pattern, to show off the ability of fescue grasses to reflect sunlight. Do this once per week through spring. As daytime temperatures rise through the summer, reduce mowing frequency if needed, and raise the mower deck to 4 or 5 inches to conserve moisture and nutrients. Water ManagementMost Middle Tennessee lawns get enough water from rain throughout the spring. Excessive irrigation will only invite disease problems. When summer heat begins to take its toll, begin a periodic watering routine in the morning hours. According to the University of Tennessee Extension Service, "A key to effective watering is to irrigate deeply, to a 4- to 6-inch soil depth, and infrequently. Actively growing fescues usually require from 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water each week." If you have an automatic irrigation system, set each spray zone to water three times per week, 10 minutes at a time. Set rotor heads to run 20 minutes a piece. Fertilization and Weed ControlGood mowing and water management practices will help to keep fungal diseases away from Middle Tennessee fescue lawns. Keep an eye out for discolorations in your turf, however, as these may be signs of disease problems. To prevent and control weeds, incorporate herbicides into your fertilization program. Fertilize once in early spring and again late in the season with a high nitrogen, general lawn fertilizer containing both a pre-emergent and post-emergent weed control. This will rid the lawn of existing broadleaf weeds and prevent future crabgrass growth. Apply a low-nitrogen fertilizer in summer, combined with a post-emergent weed control. Do not use a crabgrass preventing herbicide, for it will hamper seeding efforts later on. Put down a winterizing fertilizer high in phosphorus in mid-November to promote root growth during the dormant months. Follow product label instructions properly with each application. Aerating and OverseedingThe hot summers of Middle Tennessee tend to thin out fescue lawns, while foot traffic and tree roots compact the soil and restrict air and water flow. Repair this by aerating and over-seeding the lawn in mid-October. Unwanted Bermudagrass and other grass-weeds will soon turn brown and go dormant. Take the opportunity in mid-fall to kill these off. Spray patches with a non-selective liquid herbicide, such as Roundup. Use a walk-behind or tractor-pulled aerator to pull cores from the soil, back and forth, as in a mowing pattern. Seed the lawn at a light rate, being careful to keep grass seed out of landscape beds. Follow with an application of a starter lawn fertilizer, generally containing only nitrogen. Keep the lawn watered until new grass blades begin to emerge. |
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