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Habitat and History:
Bats are warm blooded, furry mammals. They are the only mammals capable of actual flight. Bats are nocturnal animals and feed at night, most from the wing, while in air. All bats are migratory creatures, usually colonizing in caves during the cold weather months and spreading out for several hundred miles during the spring and summer. Even the most solitary species colonize together in winter. The bones in a bat’s wings are similar to the ones found in human hands and arms. Their fingers are extended and connected by an elastic skin that grows from the side of the bat’s body. The thumbs are free from the membrane and have claws for grasping. Bats have excellent eyesight and use actual vision for long flight. They also use echolocation for locating prey and specific locations and targets. Echolocation is basically a sonar system that allows animals to navigate by the echo from various sounds they emit. Bats give off ultra sonic sounds slowly as they forage, then quicker as they pursue and capture their prey. There are over forty different species of bats found throughout the United States and Canada. Diet: All common North American bats feed on insects. Different species of bats eat different insects, but as a group they are all considered beneficial because most all of the insects eaten by bats are considered nuisances. For instance, a single little brown bat can eat 1,200 mosquitoes in one hour! Reproduction: Most species of bats give birth to a single offspring in early to late May, depending on how far north they range. The young are unable to fly until around mid July. Newborns cling to their mothers while in flight until they become too heavy and are left behind in the roost while the female feeds. Nursery colonies only contain the females and their young. Males roost in other locations during this period. Problems, Solutions and Health Concerns: A single bat that enters a dwelling can usually be removed easily. Closing all doors to a room, and leaving a window open will generally prompt a bat to leave. You can also successfully remove a bat from a room with a large can or jar. Slowly move toward the bat, so as not to startle it, and gently put it over the bat. Slide a thick paper or piece of cardboard underneath and bring it outside to release it. Remember to always wear leather gloves when dealing with a bat. They do have teeth, and can bite. They may be provoked to bite if they are being handled. If you are bitten while handling a bat, wash the wound with soap and water and get immediate medical treatment. Be sure to save the animal for examination. Bats are mammals, and are susceptible to rabies, as are humans, dogs, cats, etc. Fortunately, while bats are considered by many to be carriers of rabies, the actual incidence of rabies in bats is less than 1%. If you are experiencing a large infestation of bats in your home attic or roof, there are ways of eliminating the problem without having to harm them. Note that bats do not cause structural damage, although they can leave behind guano (bat droppings), and stains on the sides of your house where they enter and exit. Depending on how large your colony is, they can also be noisy, especially when giving birth. The best way to rid your home of bats is to seal up the structure at all points of entry. It is of the utmost importance that you do not completely seal up the bats’ entry/exit points while they are still inside your home or attic. Start out at the entry points by creating a “One Way” valve or gate. You can use a two-foot length of 4” PVC, attached by duct tape, to a soft wire mesh. Staple the mesh end to the house at the bats’ entry. This will allow the bats to exit safely, but not be able to return. The bats will not be able to grip the PVC and climb into the structure on return. If you have a nursery colony of several mothers and pups, it is important to wait until the pups are self-sufficient, otherwise their mothers will not be able to feed them, and you will have several dead bat pups rotting inside your home. You definitely do not want that! Most bats can live on their own by the age of six weeks, so late August or early September is the best time for exclusion. After installing the one-way valves, you can proceed to apply a sealant to all of the facial boards where they meet the siding, openings in the soffits, louvers and any other openings. You can use caulking, expansion foam, petroleum soaked rope, or fine mesh screening. Keep the one-way valves on for at least four nights, allowing the bats to leave safely, on their own. Then remove the valves and apply your sealant to those areas. If you want to continue to welcome bats onto your property — just not inside your home — you can build or buy one or more bat houses as an alternative. Bat boxes can be secured right to the side of your home, or to trees or posts, and a small box can accommodate dozens of bats. Remember, the definition of “pest” is in the eye of the beholder. An animal that you don’t want in your home can be desirable outside of it. Bats, with their mosquito munching tendencies, are the perfect example. And bat guano is great for your garden and lawn! Attracting birds to your yard: HGTV Most homeowners enjoy attracting birds to their garden throughout the spring and summer. But it's during the winter that birds need our help the most, since they spend nearly all of their time and energy then seeking food, shelter and water.
"Winter is a desperate time for a lot of birds," affirms Kim Eierman, a certified horticulturist and master gardener, who teaches at both the New York Botanical Garden and the Brooklyn Botanic Garden. With a little planning, your yard can become a prime spot for birds to fuel up and take refuge during those long, cold months. The key is to select a mix of plantings, shrubs and trees that offer birds the protection and food they need to survive. Not only will you enjoy seeing and hearing birds all year long—the plantings you choose will also bring colorful fruits and leaves to your winter landscape, too. Think in Layers Different types of birds prefer to seek shelter and food at different heights, so think of your yard or garden in terms of these naturally occurring layers: a canopy of tall trees, an under-canopy of smaller trees, a shrub layer, and vines or ground cover. The greater the mix of vegetation you can provide at various heights, the greater the variety of birds you're likely to attract. Aim for a tiered effect, with larger trees at the border, followed by smaller trees and clumps of bushes, then tall grasses and low flowers. "This kind of approach mimics nature," says Doug Gagne, APLD, a landscape designer and owner of The Mixed Border Nursery and Gardens in Hollis, NH. "It provides a more natural look, as well as ease of maintenance." From Seeds to Nuts During the winter, birds are on a constant hunt for food. Make your yard a convenient place for them to feed by adding trees that produce seeds and nuts. Evergreens, especially conifers-from pines (Pinus) and junipers (Juniperus) to firs (Abies), spruces (Picea) and hemlock (Tsuga)--are a must in any bird-friendly landscape, says Janet Marinelli, co-author of The Wildlife Gardener's Guide. The seeds from pine cones are a valuable source of winter food for many types of birds, including chickadees, pine siskins, grosbeaks, and woodpeckers. Plus, these hardy trees do double duty, by providing birds with shelter during winter storms. "Although they look flimsy, conifer needles are great at shedding snow and acting as windbreaks," Marinelli notes. Deciduous trees, which shed their leaves, may not offer much protection from the elements, but varieties such as oaks (Quercus), walnuts (Juglans regia), hickories (Carya) and hazelnuts (Corylus), all provide nuts that are an excellent source of fuel for birds. A Bounty of Berries Fruit-bearing trees and shrubs are a major source of food for birds; look for varieties that hold onto their fruit through the winter. Many of these winter fruits will first appear earlier in the season, but the berries will not actually become palatable to birds until they've gone through several freeze-and-thaw cycles. "It's nature's way of providing food for birds," says Eierman. Some examples of shrubs with berries that persist throughout winter include winterberry holly (Ilex verticillata), photinia, bayberry (Morella), and viburnum. Other options include several types of chokeberry bushes (Aronia), which generally all tolerate shade. Native roses (such as Rosa carolina, Rosa virginiana, Rosa palustris) are another good choice, notes Gagne; they develop fleshy red or orange fruit, known as rose "hips," during the cold months. There are over 17 native Dogwood varieties. Two to try, says Gagne: Gray dogwood (Cornus racemosa), which has white berries and purple fall foliage; and Red-twig dogwood (Cornus stolonifera), a colorful standout in any winter garden with its bright red canes. Flowering crabapple trees are not only attractive additions to a garden, their fruit is also very popular with birds. Consider varieties such as hawthorn crabapple (Malus florentina) or sargent crabapple (Malus sargentii), which feature small, bright red fruit that birds can swallow whole. Go Wild with Native Grasses Native grasses emerge later in the season, and their flowers' seeds make a wonderful wintertime food source for birds. To ensure your grasses are truly bird-friendly, don't cut them back in the fall; instead, leave them up for the winter, and cut them back in early spring. That way, you'll be providing both welcome coverage and food. Will that create a less-than-manicured look in your winter garden? Yes. "Nature isn't neat," says Eierman. "We do need to tolerate a little messiness in our garden if we want to be ecologically responsible." An added bonus for homeowners: by fall and early winter, the grasses' green leaves can turn tan, red or purple, depending on the species. Says Eierman, "You can get a beautiful color show in fall or winter." Some native grass varieties to consider for cold climates: switch grass (Panicum) and hair grass (Deschampsia), as well as a shorter ornamental grass called Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium coparium), and its taller cousin, Big Bluestem (Andropogron gerardii). Perennial Power Like native grasses, perennial flowers produce seeds that provide nutrients for birds late in the season. And just as with grasses, it's important to keep your wildflowers long all winter; don't clip their seed heads back until the spring. Perennial seeds are wildly popular with birds, notes Eierman, so be sure to plant sizable groupings of flowers, to ensure there will be enough seeds to go around. Among Eierman's favorites are the many varieties of coneflowers (Echinacea), which feature a long bloom time. "They are workhorses in the garden-very showy and easy to grow," she says. She also recommends Blazing Star (Liatris), a late bloomer that often has purple spikey flowers, and native perennial Sunflowers (Helianthus), which also come in much smaller varieties than the familiar annual sunflower. Two popular perennial options for sunny spots are low-maintenance, long-booming Coreopsis, sometimes known as Tickseed, and Black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia), with their yellow petals and deep brown center cone. For shaded areas, Gagne recommends Solomon's Seal (Polygonatum), which has tubular white flowers Water, Water Everywhere Having a clean source of water is also critical for birds-and something that homeowners often overlook during the winter. "Winter is when water is scarcest, and when birds need it the most," says Marinelli. Don't put your birdbath away for the winter, or let it freeze over. Instead, invest in a portable warming device and de-icer for your birdbath, to prevent freezing. Another option: heated birdbaths, which are available in both pedestal and deck-mounted designs. Whichever type you choose, be sure to change the water daily. Small Changes, Big Impact When deciding to be bird-friendly, remember that it's okay to start small; even making some minor changes to your landscape, like mixing in a few perennials or fruit-bearing shrubs, can have a positive effect. "There's nothing more thrilling than seeing a bird you've never seen before in your yard, just because you've chosen to include a particular plant," says Eierman. "It's a reminder that we are connected to nature, and part of it." http://www.hgtv.com/gardening/three-types-of-weeds/index.html Some weeds will rapidly take over a lawn if they are not dealt with properly. Many of them are more vigorous than grasses and can quickly smother them. Also, weeds such as dandelions can rapidly colonize nearby flowerbeds if they are allowed to spread, and annual weeds often fade away to leave bare patches of soil in the lawn. Finally, some weeds, such as thistles, are uncomfortable to sit or walk on. Knowing what type of weed you are dealing with will help you choose the best method of control. annuals: Although weeds such as groundsel and chickweed germinate, flower, and die within one year, they can rapidly colonize a garden with their large numbers of seeds. It is best to hand-weed them since they have less extensive roots than perennials. Bulbil-producing Plants such as Oxalis and buttercups build up a network of bulbils (small, bulblike structures) in the soil, which can be difficult to remove. Chemical weedkillers are often the only effective method of control. Perennials Common lawn weeds, such as dandelions, daisies, and thistles, appear year after year. Most have extensive root systems, making them hard to eradicate — remove the entire root; any pieces left in the ground will regrow.
do it yourself network Using a Broadcast or Rotary Spreader A broadcast or rotary spreader works well when you’re fertilizing larger lawn areas. Before filling the hopper, make sure it’s closed. It’s a good idea to fill it on a tarp, so you can easily gather any spilled fertilizer. Apply fertilizer around the perimeter of the lawn first, and then start to move back and forth across turf in an orderly pattern. Overlap application strips slightly to ensure that you cover the whole lawn evenly with fertilizer.
Using a Drop Spreader Choose a drop spreader for controlled fertilizer distribution. Overlap slightly on each pass to ensure you have adequate coverage, and don’t forget to close the hopper when you come to the end of a pass. You’ll typically pay more for a drop spreader, but if you’re tending a typical suburban-size lawn, it’s worth the investment. If you accidentally dump fertilizer onto your lawn, gather what you can, then use a stiff broom to spread out any remaining fertilizer as far as possible. Water it in well, and do so again a few days later to help move that nitrogen down through soil and out of the lawn’s root zone. Using a handheld broadcast spreader A handheld broadcast spreader works well for fertilizing small lawn areas. Walk evenly and slowly, and be sure to overlap distribution patterns slightly with each pass. A small spreader like this also works really well when you have shady areas in your lawn that require a different fertilizer rate than the sunny sections. Some fertilizers combine an herbicide with the lawn food. These products are sold as weed-and-feed lawn care products and are applied using a lawn spreader. using water and fertilizer A day or two before applying fertilizer, water your lawn thoroughly. After grass dries, apply fertilizer. Then lightly water again. This second watering is vitally important, because it washes fertilizer off grass blades and into soil. You can also time fertilizer application between rainfalls to let rain wash fertilizer into soil. Just be sure you don’t fertilize before a downpour, or you may wind up with fertilizer washing away, especially if your lawn slopes. Avoid applying fertilizer during a drought when a lawn has browned or withered from lack of moisture. compost Many homeowners are trying out organic lawn care practices. Using compost to fertilize turf is one option for earth-friendly lawn care. The nitrogen that compost supplies to a lawn becomes available to grass roots slowly, which helps avoid heavy nitrogen leaching. Excess lawn feeding is one key contributing factor to ground water contamination and is now regulated in some states and municipalities. Check with your local extension office or reputable garden center to learn about any specific guidelines for your region. Planting tips from the Old Farmer's almanac
Plant herbs this month. Try dill, oregano, sage, and fennel. Set strawberry plants this month in a garden bed or container. Water well. Try planting daffodils. Find varieties that fit your region. Plant cool-weather annuals such as foxglove, petunia, and Shasta daisy. If you have any tropical or subtropical container plants, move them indoors when the temperature drops to the 40s. Divide and replant crowded perennials. If you are planning on planting wildflower seeds, prepare the soil now. Till the soil thoroughly to a depth of 4 to 5 inches. Prepare a seed mixture of many different kinds. Continue planting any trees and shrubs. They will have time to establish themselves before the spring. Apply a layer of mulch around your newly planted shrubs and trees. Continue mowing and watering your lawn until it stops growing. Avoid fertilizing the lawn, as this could encourage tender growth that might be damaged during the winter. Apply a pre-emergent herbicide to your lawn to control winter weeds. Apply when nighttime temperatures are 55 to 60 degrees for 4 to 5 days. If your lawn is losing color, try overseeding with annual ryegrass when temperatures are in the low 70s. Clean up your flower beds after the first killing frost; remove any dead plants. try growing some of these indoors for a quick flavor boost to soups, stews and salads. They are easy to grow and take very little space. -Farmers almanac
Check out this post from the Farmers almanac to determine frost in your area. Nashville TN: 204 day growing season. last frost: Apr. 6 First frost: Oct. 28 |
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